HomeSewingSerger College: 3 Methods to Hem on a Serger

Serger College: 3 Methods to Hem on a Serger


|Sponsored| Have you ever tried hemming with a serger? Whereas it may not be the obvious alternative, a serger might be a superb choice for hemming, particularly when working with difficult materials resembling stretchy knits, slippery silks, and chiffons. Watch these serger methods come to life on the Sew Every day Community YouTube channel, with BERNINA Ambassador Julian Collins. Learn on—and watch!—for tips about learn how to create a rolled hem, a blind hem, and a flatlock hem in your serger.

Rolled Hem

Using a serger for rolled and Lettuce hems

Slender hems on light-weight materials might be troublesome to stitch, however with a rolled hem, you’ll be able to create a fantastic and really skilled end, even on difficult materials. The rolled hem is a really slender serger sew sewn with two or three threads that enclose the material edge on light-weight materials. Utilizing a three-thread sew, you too can create a ruffled lettuce impact when stretching a knit material.

Functions

  • Hemming clothes made from light-weight and sheer materials resembling rayon, silk, and organza
  • Hemming scarves and napkins
  • Hemming stretchy knits

Observe these steps:

  1. Set your serger for a 3-thread rolled hem. In case your material could be very gentle, use a 2-thread rolled hem. Verify the handbook for the beneficial settings. The decrease looper stress can be tighter than regular, which pulls the higher looper thread across the material edge. Begin with a sew size between 1 to 1.5.
  2. Sew a pattern to check the settings.
  3. Raise the presser foot and insert the material proper aspect up in order that the needle catches it on the primary sew.
  4. Serge the sting. The knife ought to contact the material edge sufficient in order that any fraying is trimmed. On advantageous materials, don’t place the stitches too shut collectively or it could perforate the material edge.
  5. Gently information the material along with your left hand however don’t pull when stitching.
  6. Verify that the material is rolled correctly. If not, attempt rising the chopping width barely, utilizing 1mm increments. This implies transferring the knife to the fitting.
  7. Chain off 4” and safe with a knot to complete.

If stitching a spherical hem, begin the sew over a seam. Insert the material edge, ensuring it’s evenly positioned in opposition to the knife and that the needle will contact the center of the seam for optimum feeding. To complete, overlap the seam, carry the presser foot and pull the threads no less than 4”. Clip the threads and safe the seam by attaching the thread tail into the seam allowance utilizing a hand stitching needle.

Troubleshooting

Material is poking by way of the sew.

  • Lower the sew size barely, however not an excessive amount of as a result of this may stiffen the hem.
  • Thread the higher looper with woolly nylon for higher protection.
  • Use spray starch to maintain the sides in test.

Uneven folding happens.

  • Use spray starch or water-soluble stabilizer to stabilize the material earlier than stitching.
  • Follow guiding the material evenly.

The hem is just too wavy.

  • Enhance the differential feed.
  • Don’t pull the material when stitching.

The hem is twisted.

  • Decrease the higher looper stress barely.

Lettuce Hem Variation

This model of the rolled hem creates a ruffled, wavy hem that’s excellent for hemming light-weight knits, resembling mushy jerseys, rib knit, and delicate lace sweater knits. It will also be used on bias-cut woven materials. To create a pronounced fluttery impact, stretch the material whereas stitching.

Serger Blind Hem

A blind hem is likely one of the quickest methods to stitch an (virtually) invisible hem, plus it stretches too, making it a fantastic choice for hemming knits. The trick is to make use of a thread that matches the material very intently as a little bit thread will present by way of on the fitting aspect. Follow can also be vital as it is a sew that has a little bit studying curve. Whereas this sew might be carried out with a daily serger presser foot, utilizing a serger blind hem presser foot is good.

Functions

  • Hemming stretchy and secure knits
  • Hemming medium-weight woven materials

Observe these steps:

  1. Fold the material in the direction of the material incorrect aspect and press.Fold a second time to create an ”N.” The prolonged edge must be round ⅜-¼” large. The folded hem allowance is the completed hem width plus the extension.
  2. Use a 2-thread overlock (flatlock) sew with the fitting needle threaded. A 3-thread overlock can be utilized too, but it surely’s bulkier and may not lie as flat. Verify the machine handbook for the beneficial sew for blind hemming.
  3. Set the sew size ought to to 4.0 and the sew width to five.0.
  4. Decrease the needle stress to assist the seam lay flat when opened. Sew a pattern to ensure the settings are proper for the material.
  5. If utilizing a blind hem presser foot with an adjustable edge information, test the directions for learn how to set the correct distance.
  6. Insert the folded edge beneath the presser foot, incorrect aspect up, with the extension dealing with towards the knife.
  7. Serge in order that the needle catches the folded edge very narrowly; that is key to attaining an invisible sew. Transfer the material if wanted or regulate the gap if utilizing a blind hem presser foot.
  8. End by overlapping the sew. Raise the presser foot, take away the garment and clip the threads. Safe the threads with a knot or a hand-sewing needle.
  9. Open up the fold and press with an iron if wanted.

The extra you apply this method, the higher you’ll get, so don’t surrender if the primary time isn’t precisely a attraction.

Troubleshooting

An excessive amount of thread is displaying on the fitting aspect.

  • Transfer the fold barely to the left.
  • Enhance the sting information distance if utilizing an adjustable blind hem presser foot.
  • Lower the sew chopping width, utilizing 1mm changes.

The needle doesn’t catch the sting.

  • Transfer the fold barely to the fitting.
  • Lower the sting distance on the blind hem presser foot.
  • Enhance the sew chopping width barely.

The hem doesn’t lie flat.

  • Scale back the needle stress.

Knit hems are stretched out.

  • Enhance the differential feed, transferring extra material in from the entrance.

Flatlock Hemming

This method provides your knit clothes an ornamental, professional-looking hem with wonderful stretch. On the surface, there’s a ornamental flatlock sew and vertical stitches (additionally referred to as ladders) on the within. The key to this sew is to make use of a particular folding methodology.

Functions

  • Hemming knits
  • Ornamental stitching

Observe these steps:

  1. Fold the material towards the incorrect aspect.
  2. Fold a second time over the primary fold. Be sure that the sting of the material sits proper contained in the second fold.
  3. Arrange the serger for a 2-thread large flatlock with the left needle threaded. The seam width must be round 6mm, or wider relying on the thickness of your material. The BERNINA L860 goes as much as 9mm in width.
  4. Disengage (decrease) the knife. Verify the handbook for a way to do that. This is essential as the material shouldn’t be minimize.
  5. Place the folded material, proper aspect up, beneath the presser foot.
  6. There must be a distance between the material and the knife to create a flat hem when pulled open. Begin with an 1/8” distance however be ready to experiment.
  7. Begin stitching, checking that the needle catches the internal fringe of the folded material. It’s vital that the folding is finished very exactly in order that the material edge is aligned with the second fold.
  8. End by overlapping a number of stitches, if stitching a round hem. Raise the presser foot to launch the threads and pull again a tail that’s no less than 4”. Clip and safe the thread tail on the reverse utilizing a hand needle.
  9. Pull the hem open in order that it lies flat.

Extra Serger College!

Serger College: Chainstitch Fundamentals

Serger College: Subsequent-Step Knits + 7 Patterns to Strive


Sponsored by BERNINA of America | BERNINA offered the L890 serger | bernina.com 

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