HomeSewingTips on how to Sew a Sure Seam (Hong Kong Seam)

Tips on how to Sew a Sure Seam (Hong Kong Seam)

Seam finishes are available all types of types and growing your repertoire of methods can preserve your stitching abilities sharp and versatile.


A favourite seam end of mine is a Hong Kong seam—or a sure seam. I at all times really feel slightly additional fancy after I add a seam end like this to one in all my initiatives. It’s the excellent seam end for unlined initiatives like jackets and a few clothes or pants.


Supplies for Stitching a Sure Seam

Steps to Sew a Sure Seam

Step 1. Sew Customary 5/8” Seam

Apply makes excellent, so attempting this method out forward of creating your closing garment might be useful. A sure seam works nice on a single layer of seams sewn with a 5/8” seam allowance (commonplace for many US sample firms—however many Indie Patterns can have various seam allowances—so plan your math accordingly). Use the seam allowance guides discovered in your BERNINA sew plate.


Press the seam open, utilizing a great steam iron like Laurastar.


Step 2. Lower the Bias Strip

Put together your bias binding from silk cloth for a standard and splendid appear and feel. I start by slicing and piecing a number of yards of 1” bias minimize binding. Ensure that to estimate your wants primarily based on the challenge you making use of this to—as piecing the lengths might or will not be essential.

Step 3. Add Binding with 1/4″ Seam Allowance

BERNINA makes a number of totally different Patchwork Toes for attaining the right 1/4″ seam. Relying in your machine—select your favourite model for this method. I used the Patchwork Foot #97 with Information for this lesson. This foot is ideal for a 9 mm machine just like the B 480. I want this foot over the Twin Feed model of the foot as a result of the silk is delicate and minimize on the bias edge—so the addition of Twin Feed is overkill and will trigger extra shifting of the material on the edge. The information is completely elective.

Study all of the Patchwork Toes in this put up by Sylvain Bergeron.


Utilizing glass head pins, connect the binding to the highest edge of 1 facet of the seam allowance. Sew the silk to the highest edge with a ¼” seam allowance.


After stitching, press the bias tape away from the seam allowance. Then repeat for the alternative facet.


Step 4. Wrap the Binding and Sew within the Ditch

The final step left is to wrap the bias binding across the seam edge and press to the again neatly. That is much like binding a quilt—with the exception that the underside of the bias binding shouldn’t be folded underneath and is left uncooked.


One of the best sew within the ditch stitching may be achieved with the BERNINA Edgestitch Foot #10/10C/10D. For this method I selected foot #10C—the 9 mm model with out Twin Feed. This foot gave me nice management and with the needle within the center place, and the information on the foot aligned with the bias edge on high allowed the stitches to fall precisely within the “ditch” of my seam. This creates a very skilled look.


Give the binding and seam a pleasant press.

Step 5. Trim Extra Material

Lastly, the final step is to trim away the surplus cloth on the again of the seam. Shock—bias minimize cloth frays little or no, so you possibly can trim very near the sew line. Dressmaker shears or duckbilled scissors work nice for this course of.

Take pleasure in your fancy seams and your newfound stitching ability!



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